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- A LED TV Repair Attempt With A Disappointing Result
- How To Repair No Power Symptom In LED TV
- Dead LED TV restored back to life. Model: Fuji Japan
- 50″ LED TV Display Problem Repaired
- LED TV That I’m Not Able To Repair
- Shorted LED Lights In An LED TV Repaired. Model LG
DIY: Samsung Tablet Repair Tips That You Should Not Miss!
This is a Samsung Galaxy Tab A SM-T350 8 inch tablet that the children play with. The problems with it were that it was not charging, and the digitizer was loose. My sister bought a new battery for it believing that the battery was the problem. I put the new battery into it, but the reason it was not charging is because the charge-adapter port was damaged. It uses the ubiquitous USB Micro-B.
In the past, replacing these Micro-B ports was a pain in the neck for me! I used my soldering iron, hot-air rework station and everything but a hammer, and would sometimes nearly burn the motherboards up – I did burn the first one up. Using Chip-Quik (CQ) should make removing the damaged charge port much easier with less heat transferred to the motherboard. Below are a few photos of the inside.
In the previous photos I have the motherboard removed. I put plenty of flux around the charge port and melted the CQ all around it (Bend the CQ real slow or it will snap). You need to make sure that the tiny leads have plenty of CQ on them or you might damage the SMD pads while removing the charge port. You could cut the pins with a sharp razor blade first just to be on the safe side if you wish. *If you are doing your own repairs, then be sure to use hand and eye protection*
The charge port was removed very nicely – the quickest and easiest time I have ever spent on removing one, and the only way I will ever do the job from now on if I have anything to say about it. The CQ is kind of expensive, but worth every penny as far as I’m concerned. *(Be sure to wick away the CQ from the board!)*
I couldn’t get the old solder out of the two tiny pin holes in the above photo to save my life! I tried everything I could think of. So I gave up and just drilled them out with a tiny drill bit about 0.40mm OD in my Dremel 7700.
I installed the new charge port with my rework station, but my solder paste was too old and really made a mess of things! I had to use some more CQ to remove it again. I didn’t check the solder paste before using it, which was a big mistake! I even had to use some sandpaper to get some of the old paste off. I didn’t use sandpaper on the tiny pads much because I was afraid I might pull some of them up. The tiny pads cleaned up good enough for the pins to lay pretty flat but they looked terrible. Luckily after all that mess the board and charge port was not ruined, but it made my work look shabby as you can see in the above photo. Yuck!!
In the next photo I show both sides of the new (messy) charge port soldered onto the motherboard. I used my Hakko soldering iron this time after removing all of the CQ and tinning the pads with good leaded solder. It doesn’t look as good as it should but it is soldered well. I learned some valuable lessons on this repair. The next charge-adapter port that I replace will look much better. Now it’s time to start on the digitizer.
In the above photo I have the 3M 300LSE 9495LE double-sided tape installed onto the digitizer. I bought two rolls of the tape; one 10mm wide, and the other one 2mm wide. After cleaning the inside of the digitizer very well, I peeled off the paper and installed it onto the tablet. I forgot to heat the tape up first before installing the digitizer so I hope I don’t have to reapply it. But I have plenty of the tape if I need to reapply it. And the more I do it the better I will get at it.
In the next photo everything is back together and the tablet looks good. And more importantly, it is charging nicely!
**Side note: If you don’t like wearing pants at the bench like me, then cover your legs with a towel or something when using the Chip-Quik because it will ball up and roll off of the motherboard easily. Luckily, it cools quickly on skin and won’t burn too bad, but it will wake you up fast! lol! After applying the CQ, you can heat it up to remove the charge port with your iron or hot-air, it’s up to you. And as I mentioned before, be sure to wick away all of the CQ before soldering the new charge port onto the board or it will lower the melting point of your solder **
I hope yall enjoyed this article. Until next time, have fun fixing electronics devices!
Robert Calk is a hobbyist from the USA who loves Electronics, Leatherworking, and Watchmaking.
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Please check out his previous repair article below: