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Harman/Kardon Bluray player DTS set repair
Yesterday my nephew brought his secondhand recently bought Harman/Kardon HS 350 BluRay player Digital Theater Surround Sound set that was completely dead. He asked if it was possible to repair this replacement set because his previous Philips HTS5560/12 set blew up the amplifier and refused to give any sound afterwards. (I am already waiting two months on replacement parts with which I hope to fix his previous Philips set again like I did before when I replaced a couple of defect e-caps on the output stage of that amplifier board). This repair is about the Harman/Kardon HS 350.
I opened the set by removing 4 bottom screws and 5 back plate screws, after I easily could remove the black top cover.
And I began to inspect the Amplifier output stage board on the left and the Power unit on the right. As can be seen on next photo looking in from the front side of the set.
Above photo shows the Amplifier board with the 5 bad e-caps looking in from the back.Next photos show the 10 bad e-caps in the Power Unit. Which brings the total of bad e-caps in this set on 15!
Next photo shows the position of the small capacitor on the solder side that could be the start-up capacitor (220uF/25V). And next all now replaced bad replaced e-caps on the Power board.
Below the 5 bad replaced e-caps from the Amplifier board. (All 470uF/50V).
The soldering of the above-mentioned e-caps on the Amplifier Output stage board was almost impossible to do with my good-old Ersa MS6000 soldering station.
Because the copper layers were so thick that the warmth of my solder iron almost did not melt the tin. Next photo shows the board after the 5 bad 470uF/50V capacitors were removed.
Because I could not heat up the solder in the cold copper of the board enough it meant that their holes were still completely closed with tin after the bad caps were taken out.
Why placing new 470uF/50V caps was not possible at first. Neither my soldering iron nor my S993A desoldering gun were hot enough to be able to remove the tin in the holes, why I also used my Gordak 952-A Hot-air station – Air mode set to 4.5 – Heater set on 5.5. Together with my hot-air nozzle it allowed me to heat up the board and the tip of my S993-A tin desoldering pistol so that the solder finally became hot enough to perfectly remove all the old tin. And I could place the new e-caps. By-the-way: the brown sticky stuff that was visible on the capacitors in the Power board was just some glue that the manufacturer must have used to glue the e-caps closely together. But it was apparently badly added because it also ended up on top of most e-caps.
Above photo showed the board after the bad 470uF 50V capacitors were removed. And next photo shows the Amplifier board after all new e-caps were placed. (the five replacement 470uF/50V and the two 1000uF/50V caps are smaller and taken from his previous originally Philips HTS 5560/12 set).
After replacing all 15 bulged e-caps, the harman/kardon player was back alive again as the last photos show! My nephew will be pleased that he can enjoy watching his movies and listen to his music again.
I think that seeing the inside of this set the quality of the electronic parts used here it is better made than the previous Philips HTS 5560/12 set he had. But that set had nearly as much bulged e-caps as his new Harman/Kardon now had.
Green power button works , and standby red/orange button works. And also Power On and Power Off works on the very bright display.
And also Reading and all other display messages work on this perfect visible display! And the also very nice illuminated green Volume knob works like new!
This Harman/Kardon set also has a very nice programmable IR remote control.
Albert van Bemmelen, Weert, The Netherlands.
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Note: You can read his previous repair article in the below link: