No Power In Telesonic DVD Player Solved

By on July 22, 2017
how to fix power in dvd

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

telesonic dvd player no power

Customer sent to me this Telesonic DVD player with the complaint of no power symptom. As usual I had to test it first by connecting the AC plug and it was indeed no power.




 Once the cover was removed I could see the main filter capacitor bulged and when I looked at the side view of the circuit board, I saw the main filter capacitor sleeve melted and the resistor located in front of the capacitor, the leg was rusted-see the photos below:

no power in dvd player

how to repair no power in dvd

Both of the components were removed and after that I checked on the main fuse. In fact you can check on the main fuse first if you wish to. I found that the main fuse was also bad (open circuit).

fuse open

Next, I checked on the power IC pins and found that it was shorted. I proceeded to check all the components in the primary and secondary side and found there were five bad components-see the photo below:

viper22a ic shorted

broken electronic parts

After the replacement with good component, I used the series light bulb test to really make sure there was no longer short circuit. Otherwise if there is a short circuit, the components that I had just replaced would blow again.

light bulb test

The bulb lighted up for a while and went dim which indicated a good sign that I can turn on the DVD player. I put in the new fuse and powered On and the DVD player came back to life again-see the two photos below:

TELESONIC dvd working

fix dvd player

Conclusion- If you wish to learn how to repair DVD player like a professional , I suggest that you get Humphrey’s ebook HERE. He does provide technical support if you encountered problem in DVD player. Ok, see you again in the next article soon.

suranga

This article was prepared for you by Suranga Bandara who owns an Electronics repair shop in Anuradapura, Sri Lanka.




Please give a support by clicking on the social buttons below. Your feedback on the post is welcome. Please leave it in the comments. If you have electronic repair articles to share with us, please contact us HERE.

P.S-  If you enjoyed reading this, click here to subscribe to my blog (free subscription). That way, you’ll never miss a post. You can also forward this website link to your friends and colleagues-thanks!

Note: You may check out his previous post in the below link:

http://jestineyong.com/olik-active-speaker-repair/

Likes(75)Dislikes(0)

11 Comments

  1. Parasuraman

    July 22, 2017 at 6:29 pm

    Excellent and expert way of trouble shooting!

    Likes(2)Dislikes(0)
  2. Robert Calk

    July 22, 2017 at 8:56 pm

    Good job, Suranga.

    Likes(1)Dislikes(0)
  3. Albert

    July 23, 2017 at 4:54 pm

    Another straightforward pro repair Suranga! I have replaced a couple of those Viper ICs too in the past. Like the VIPER12A (sop-8). They are often used in Washingmaschines, Dryers or other consumer electronics. And like probably in your device they often get short circuited between Drain and Source, which also blows a 47 ohm resistor. And both need to be replaced in these cases. And those ICs have, if I'm not mistaken, some sort of very low standby circuit integrated when the device is electronically switched off. And also the LNK304 and LNK305 are often short circuited together with a blown serie resister. Some consumer home appliances need a cooling down time before they are ready to switch on to prevent the mentioned parts from blowing up. (as I heard a friend of mine say who repairs these white goods frequently). Which seems like a contradiction because large heater elements are normally PTC resistors, that have higher resistances when they are still hot.

    Likes(1)Dislikes(0)
  4. Humberto

    July 24, 2017 at 12:01 pm

    Good job Suranga.

    Likes(2)Dislikes(0)
  5. Yogesh Panchal

    July 24, 2017 at 4:31 pm

    Good job! Suranga

    Likes(1)Dislikes(0)
  6. okunlola

    July 25, 2017 at 2:47 pm

    pls how do you no the viper ic was bad when you didnt supply power to it

    Likes(1)Dislikes(0)
    • Owais Akhter

      November 4, 2017 at 5:02 am

      If you check with multimeter for diode or resistance testing function and connect your meter probes to drain pin and source pin you must not get low resistance or shorted indication similar to FET testing. If you use diode function of meter then you must get any voltage drop either side.

      Likes(0)Dislikes(0)
  7. Elijah

    August 6, 2017 at 2:11 pm

    How is the serial light bulb test connected?

    Likes(0)Dislikes(0)
    • Owais Akhter

      November 4, 2017 at 5:09 am

      You may remove fuse from circuit and connect light bulb 60w or 100w in Fuse connection. This is how you connect light bulb in series with power supply. When you turn on power supply then bulb will act as fuse but will limit current to power supply. When first turn on power bulb will glow bright and then let capacitor charge and then bulb goes dim because of capacitor fully charged and indicating there is no short. If bulb still glow bright after few seconds then there is other components which is shorted.

      Likes(0)Dislikes(0)
  8. Owais Akhter

    November 4, 2017 at 5:19 am

    Dear Suranga,
    Your multimeter shows low battery indication and this will not show you correct readings of most function. You must change battery and then use multimeter. If you can afford then I recommend to use quality multimeter with auto-range. Fluke will be better choice as their readings are more trustworthy and reliable and mainly safe if you accidentally test voltage on resistance or other function instead of voltage function.

    Likes(0)Dislikes(0)
  9. Ulises Aguilar Pazzani

    November 6, 2017 at 10:31 am

    great fix Mr muranga,
    even if the battery of Your meter was of

    Likes(0)Dislikes(0)

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *