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Panasonic (National) Remote Control Fan No Power Symptom
Troubleshoot from remote to board
I encounter the remote control fan fails to turn on without any sight of LED lighting up even triggered with the remote control. If you happen to have a remote control from the same model, try switching the fan on. I dismantle the fan from the ceiling, same goes to the fan blades to have an offline troubleshooting.
1# Verify remote control
It is vital to verify remote control is working as a lot of appliance rely on remote control to function it. In this part it would be a general method to check the remote control. You will need a smartphone with camera to check the remote control infrared is transmitting signal out. I would recommend to use an Android, Windows or some generic smartphones in the market (except iPhone, I’ll explain later on).
Point the remote control’s infrared transmitter facing to the phone camera. Switch on phone’s camera mode and keep pressing the remote’s power button. A white glowing light can be seen from the infrared led which indicates the remote control is transmitting and in working condition. Either front or rear camera phone will work for this trick.
While using Apple iPhone rear camera, it will not work as iPhone’s camera had infrared filter installed to their rear camera. Only the front camera (selfie cam) will be able to show infrared light up in Apple iPhone.
If you does not see any light up from the infrared diode via camera phone. Then checking on the remote control is required as it might be culprit for not power up the fan.
#2 Board troubleshooting
Removed fan casing to access the board of the fan. The first sight was a lizard electrocuted on the board and was too disgusting to snap a photo of it. After I removed the remains of the lizard, the board is slightly blackish with minor burn marks on the pcb. Glance through the board, does not see any component with burns mark cause by that culprit lizard. Diodes and jumper around that area is working upon verification with multimeter.
At the top left corner of the board, there is where the AC supply comes in and a protective fuse 2A is in series. A quick check on the fuse to see is blown or still connected. In this case it is still connected.
Started by checking transistors, diodes to see any of them shorted or abnormal. Found two zener diodes, ZD1 & ZD2 are shorted in both polarities, both are identical 7.5v diodes written on the body and it is connected in serial. Roughly, 15v of reverse bias breakdown voltage between this two zener diodes.
After replacing it, I continue searching for other components to see any of them are still shorted or abnormal. It seems the board components look good without blown or shorted. Therefore, I proceed to assemble back the fan to see whether it could be power up.
One more things back assembling back, check the three big red capacitors. Use a capacitance meter or multimeter to check on the value of these capacitors. They might be ageing and giving lower value than expected which can cause the fan speed to be abnormal on the affected capacitor.
It is highly recommended to change those red big capacitors if any of it are no longer accurate in its rated value. These capacitors should be easily available in your local electronic store.
If you can’t find it, head to eBay or spare part stores online. They should have this kind of parts and price is relatively cheap. You may also use capacitors that comes with wire (shown below), just solder the wires into board and glue the capacitor on board. As long the value and rating is right, it is workable.
After assembling back on the ceiling, the fan is able to power up. Hope this helps for anyone encounter dead remote control fan. Thanks.
YH Wong is from Malaysia with a degree in Computer Engineering. Currently, work as a test engineer in semiconductor industry. Avid in troubleshooting & repairing electronic gadgets related.
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