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PC Intel D 326 cooling problem solved
PC Intel D 326 cooling problem I got a call from a local woodworking company. They called me because one of their PC is in some case to slow and they cannot work with it. The main problem was they need a quick solution because this PC is a very important, part in their IT structure in the company. This means it must be fixed in the night before the next wok day began. I sad ok, let as try…
When I started the PC, it was a bit slow can I say, but the reason is ok. The main CPU is an Intel D326, which means it is an old computer. After 10min it started to bugging and slowing down the performance until it shut down in the next 10min.
I started it again but the power light blinked up and the PC turned off again. Then I realized there is some problem with the cooling system. I wait for 3-4min. Started the PC again and go to the bios and checked in the H/W Monitor menu, for the thermal characteristics of the PC. What I saw was horrible worse! Check in this picture:
The CPU is to hot when only the BIOS program is running, which means 75ºC and the CPU FAN1 speed has only 486 RPM. This is to low on so high temperature. These conditions are a serious problem. The CPU is close cooked. This explained me the behavior of the PC. I decide to make a visual check.
When I opened the PC case, see how it looked:
The situation with the dust is not so critical, I saw much more dust in PC’s where are the temperature was high, but won’t turn of the PC. Now I turned on the PC again. The FAN was moving, not so fast but was moving and gives a grinding noise too. After 20 min, I decide to bring the PC to my service and clean all the stuff and check all the parts for any defect. After cleaning job, I saw a label on the motherboard, which gives me an attention.
This mobo is an MSI G41M-P26 but under the sticker is something other. How can this be and what is it for? I took of the label to see what is under it:
Now I have a mobo with the label G41M-S01. What mobo did I meet now? I checked on the official site of MSI for the differences of these two mobos. What I found is that the G41M-P26 can handle 4 GB of RAM and the G41M-S01 can handle 8 GB of RAM.
I further don’t know which mobo I meeting? Decide to send the question to MSI just to get the answer why they printed an extra label to this mobo. I am waiting for the answer, ok I really don’t waiting because I think they won’t send an explanation for this. One think is true, this mobo is not worth to buy, I mean, if you buy a mobo check and avoid stuff like this. Let’s go back to the main problem.
I decide to change the cooling FAN but I don’t have right now in my service a FAN like this and I have to bring back next morning the PC. I also have nowhere to buy a new FAN this type in the middle of the night but I let play this from YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSq4B_zHqPM and gone back to work.
Here is what I did:
So you can release the original FAN from his holder and put a regular FAN from a PC PSU or similar FAN with a dimension, which can fit, into the place of the original.
What you have to take care is to meet the current consumption of the new FAN. There is standard for the max power consumption of the FAN1 and FAN2 controller that means it must be max 15mA. If you wish to use a FAN in your PC that need more power, you have to connect it to the HDD power connector of the PSU and not to the FAN1 or FAN2 connector on the motherboard.
I have to use the old cable from the bad FAN to connect the wires from the new FAN. This is because the old cable has the original connector on one end what fits direct to the FAN1 connector on the motherboard. What you have to care is how you wire up the +12V and the GND.
You can see in the bunch of the old FAN cable is a wire with yellow color. If you know/remember the yellow cable which comes from the PSU of your PC is the +12V and the red wire is the +5V. In this case, this is not the situation. The red wire is the +12V. Here is the whole pin out of the connector on the motherboard specified by Intel corporation.
1 – Black wire is the ground
2 – Red wire is the +12V
3 – Yellow wire is the sense wire where the bios sense the RPM of the FAN
4 – Blue wire is the control wire. Through this wire is the RPM controlled of the FAN
After I isolated the connection with a heat-shrinking pipe, I put some hot glue on the new FAN, just in case. Otherwise, the new FAN is fitting very hard in his place. Cannot move anywhere even without the hot glue.
After assembling the whole think, I made a stress test to see what the situation now is.
To overload the CPU I used the HeavyLoad software.
For measuring the temperature of the CPU I used the HWMonitor.
As you can see I got now a temp.max of 63ºC while the CPU was full loaded for 26min.
This is much better but something strange is in the basket. I’m not happy with this temperature what I got after all this job.
I got more into the deep.
TMPIN0 is the temperature of the motherboard
TMPIN1 is the temperature of the case of the CPU
TMPIN2 is the temperature of the chassis ( air temp )
These thermal inputs are only usable on this type of motherboard. You have to see which thermal sensors where are connected, on which TMPIN on your motherboard.
The TMPIN1 is the think why I am not happy.
The TMPIN1 is the CPU case temperature, almost every CPU have two type of temperature what can be monitored.
- Case temperature
- Core temperature
If my CPU case temperature is 63ºC how much is the CPU core temp then?
These temp are taken on a room temperature at 20ºC-21ºC. What will happening when I bring back the PC and put it back under the table in the office? And when the room temp grows to lets say 25ºC in wintertime or in summertime, it could be much higher.
Lets think about, usually the FAN from the PC PSU have max 1000 RPM but the original CPU FAN have 2000-4000 RPM and that is much higher cooling coefficient.
What can I do now?
– need to know what the CPU thermal specification is
– get the thermal specification from the CPU datasheet
– Simply put another PSU FAN
Here are the data from the official datasheet of the Intel D326 CPU:
Because this CPU has no core thermal sensor integrated, we should use the CPU case temperature. In my case it means under full load the CPU maximum case temperature have to be TcMax=67.7ºC. At the moment, I have 63 ºC. I’m only around 4 ºC far from shut down temp.
I decide to put a second PSU FAN on the backside of the PC like on this picture and run a quick test with both FAN’s:
Here is the result:
Now got a thermal tear down from 63ºC to 47 ºC in the same test runtime which is 29min, the first test runtime was 26min.I have to say now I’m happy with this result. Here is the instruction how I connected the second FAN to the motherboard: This is the power connector of a floppy drive, from an old PSU. This fits nice to the FAN2 connector on the motherboard.
Then I separated the wires from the connector of the floppy drive and reorganized so that will fit in the right order and color.
Now connect the black wire to the black wire on the second FAN and the red to the red wire on the second FAN. Isolate it with electric tape, better with het shrink tube. Connect this to the connector FAN2 or SYSTEM FAN2 on the motherboard. After this modification, I run one new stress test over the night and see what I got:
Now I can sleep well, this PC would not be cooked for lunch. I hope you enjoy this tutorial and will save lot of repair time.
This article was prepared for you by Christian Robert Adzic from Novi Knezevac-Serbia.
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