PC Intel D 326 cooling problem solved

By on October 14, 2015
pc cpu hot problem solve







warning danger

PC Intel D 326 cooling problem I got a call from a local woodworking company. They called me because one of their PC is in some case to slow and they cannot work with it. The main problem was they need a quick solution because this PC is a very important, part in their IT structure in the company. This means it must be fixed in the night before the next wok day began. I sad ok, let as try…

When I started the PC, it was a bit slow can I say, but the reason is ok. The main CPU is an Intel D326, which means it is an old computer. After 10min it started to bugging and slowing down the performance until it shut down in the next 10min.

I started it again but the power light blinked up and the PC turned off again. Then I realized there is some problem with the cooling system. I wait for 3-4min. Started the PC again and go to the bios and checked in the H/W Monitor menu, for the thermal characteristics of the PC. What I saw was horrible worse! Check in this picture:

cmos setup utility

The CPU is to hot when only the BIOS program is running, which means 75ºC and the CPU FAN1 speed has only 486 RPM. This is to low on so high temperature. These conditions are a serious problem. The CPU is close cooked. This explained me the behavior of the PC. I decide to make a visual check.

When I opened the PC case, see how it looked:

dust in pc

The situation with the dust is not so critical, I saw much more dust in PC’s where are the temperature was high, but won’t turn of the PC. Now I turned on the PC again. The FAN was moving, not so fast but was moving and gives a grinding noise too. After 20 min, I decide to bring the PC to my service and clean all the stuff and check all the parts for any defect. After cleaning job, I saw a label on the motherboard, which gives me an attention.

cpu board repair

This mobo is an MSI G41M-P26 but under the sticker is something other. How can this be and what is it for? I took of the label to see what is under it:

mobo repair

Now I have a mobo with the label G41M-S01. What mobo did I meet now? I checked on the official site of MSI for the differences of these two mobos. What I found is that the G41M-P26 can handle 4 GB of RAM and the G41M-S01 can handle 8 GB of RAM.

I further don’t know which mobo I meeting? Decide to send the question to MSI just to get the answer why they printed an extra label to this mobo. I am waiting for the answer, ok I really don’t waiting because I think they won’t send an explanation for this. One think is true, this mobo is not worth to buy, I mean, if you buy a mobo check and avoid stuff like this. Let’s go back to the main problem.

I decide to change the cooling FAN but I don’t have right now in my service a FAN like this and I have to bring back next morning the PC. I also have nowhere to buy a new FAN this type in the middle of the night but I let play this from YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSq4B_zHqPM  and gone back to work.

Here is what I did:

dirty fan cpu

So you can release the original FAN from his holder and put a regular FAN from a PC PSU or similar FAN with a dimension, which can fit, into the place of the original.

working cpu fan

What you have to take care is to meet the current consumption of the new FAN. There is standard for the max power consumption of the FAN1 and FAN2 controller that means it must be max 15mA. If you wish to use a FAN in your PC that need more power, you have to connect it to the HDD power connector of the PSU and not to the FAN1 or FAN2 connector on the motherboard.

cpu wire

I have to use the old cable from the bad FAN to connect the wires from the new FAN. This is because the old cable has the original connector on one end what fits direct to the FAN1 connector on the motherboard. What you have to care is how you wire up the +12V and the GND.

You can see in the bunch of the old FAN cable is a wire with yellow color. If you know/remember the yellow cable which comes from the PSU of your PC is the +12V and the red wire is the +5V. In this case, this is not the situation. The red wire is the +12V. Here is the whole pin out of the connector on the motherboard specified by Intel corporation.

intel corporation


1 – Black wire is the ground

2 – Red wire is the +12V

3 – Yellow wire is the sense wire where the bios sense the RPM of the FAN

4 – Blue wire is the control wire. Through this wire is the RPM controlled of the FAN

After I isolated the connection with a heat-shrinking pipe, I put some hot glue on the new FAN, just in case. Otherwise, the new FAN is fitting very hard in his place. Cannot move anywhere even without the hot glue.

hot glue fan


After assembling the whole think, I made a stress test to see what the situation now is.


To overload the CPU I used the HeavyLoad software.

For measuring the temperature of the CPU I used the HWMonitor.

As you can see I got now a temp.max of 63ºC while the CPU was full loaded for 26min.

This is much better but something strange is in the basket. I’m not happy with this temperature what I got after all this job.

I got more into the deep.

TMPIN0 is the temperature of the motherboard

TMPIN1 is the temperature of the case of the CPU

TMPIN2 is the temperature of the chassis ( air temp )

These thermal inputs are only usable on this type of motherboard. You have to see which thermal sensors where are connected, on which TMPIN on your motherboard.

The TMPIN1 is the think why I am not happy.

The TMPIN1 is the CPU case temperature, almost every CPU have two type of temperature what can be monitored.

  1. Case temperature
  2. Core temperature

If my CPU case temperature is 63ºC how much is the CPU core temp then?

These temp are taken on a room temperature at 20ºC-21ºC. What will happening  when I bring back the PC and put it back under the table in the office? And when the room temp grows to lets say 25ºC in wintertime or in summertime, it could be much higher.

Lets think about, usually the FAN from the PC PSU have max 1000 RPM but the original CPU FAN have 2000-4000 RPM and that is much higher cooling coefficient.

What can I do now?

– need to know what the CPU thermal specification is

– get the thermal specification from the CPU datasheet

– Simply put another PSU FAN

Here are the data from the official datasheet of the Intel D326 CPU:


Because this CPU has no core thermal sensor integrated, we should use the CPU case temperature. In my case it means under full load the CPU maximum case temperature have to be TcMax=67.7ºC. At the moment, I have 63 ºC. I’m only around 4 ºC far from shut down temp.

I decide to put a second PSU FAN on the backside of the PC like on this picture and run a quick test with both FAN’s:


Here is the result:


Now got a thermal tear down from 63ºC to 47 ºC in the same test runtime which is 29min, the first test runtime was 26min.I have to say now I’m happy with this result.  Here is the instruction how I connected the second FAN to the motherboard: This is the power connector of a floppy drive, from an old PSU. This fits nice to the FAN2 connector on the motherboard.


Then I separated the wires from the connector of the floppy drive and reorganized so that will fit in the right order and color.



Now connect the black wire to the black wire on the second FAN and the red to the red wire on the second FAN. Isolate it with electric tape, better with het shrink tube. Connect this to the connector FAN2 or SYSTEM FAN2 on the motherboard. After this modification, I run one new stress test over the night and see what I got:


Now I can sleep well, this PC would not be cooked for lunch. I hope you enjoy this tutorial and will save lot of repair time.









This article was prepared for you by Christian Robert Adzic from Novi Knezevac-Serbia.

Please give a support by clicking  on the social buttons below. Your feedback on the post is welcome. Please leave it in the comments.

P.S-  If you enjoyed reading this, click here to subscribe to my blog (free subscription). That way, you’ll never miss a post. You can also forward this website link to your friends and colleagues-thanks!

Note: You can check his previous post in the below link:




  1. Robert Calk

    October 14, 2015 at 12:21 pm

    Nice job, Chris! Thanks for the article.

  2. Imraz

    October 14, 2015 at 12:29 pm

    Waaoo, A great article with Good Explanation

  3. Albert van Bemmelen

    October 14, 2015 at 12:43 pm

    Well done Chris! Seeing how dirty the Mainboard was you did good! It is a shame that the original cpu Fan wasn't salvageable. But the inside electronic parts of the old Fan like the Hal sensor can prove useful in case you need to repair the RPM sensor in another Fan. And you probably also are one of the first who made a very convincing photo of a Fan proving it is turning. I guess you didn't get any answer from the Manufacturer? The Intel processor max temp information you gave could be very useful, just as the Sense wire modification you made. Thanks!

    • Chris

      October 14, 2015 at 8:50 pm

      Hi Albert!
      Thank you for supporting my article.
      I tried to disassemble the original cpu fan but something cracked when I tried to lift out the propeller from the housing.
      The hall sensor and the pcb of that is in good condition and I will use it in another fan or maybe in some diy project.
      I appreciate your time and comment.

      • Albert van Bemmelen

        October 15, 2015 at 3:30 am

        Thanks Chris, The cracking of the Fan thing you mentioned is only small compared to the mistake I made in the past with a Fan from an Eee pc. But it was quite unexpected and it happened without even touching the little cooler fan at all! It was when I tried to clean the Eee pc internally from dust with air pressure from a Air compressor. I blew off about 12 of the 13 blades of the very small Fan. it was clean all right afterwards but i nevertheless somehow managed to glue all blades back to the very small Fan rotator plastic with very tiny drops of superglue. So keep this in mind and don't do what I did back then! Cheers.

  4. Mohammed Kasim

    October 14, 2015 at 12:59 pm

    Good information.... Kudos

  5. Marlon

    October 14, 2015 at 1:03 pm

    I'm really thankful of your site.

  6. Yogesh Panchal

    October 14, 2015 at 4:04 pm

    Chris, Nice attempt.

    Putting different model number sticker on motherboard is because of different Firmware of BIOS so that in some Bios related problem you can use it as a reference at the time of updating BIOS Program. Second modification of CPU it is doubtful how it react on long run time period and on workload of the applications because you have disconnected sense circuit while CPU FAN are of made differently other than Case FAN in terms of RPM and purpose for what manufacturer has designed for(CPU FAN 2000 to 4500 RPM) .It is advisable to use appropriate CPU FAN or it may damage CPU on long run.

    • Chris

      October 15, 2015 at 3:39 am

      Thank you for supporting my article.
      The firmware of the BIOS is always labeled on the BIOS ic and has nothing to do with the labeling of motherboards. The labeling of the mobos is the hardware reference index of that device.
      It means, what type and class of components was used to make the device, what quality class meet the device etc.
      In my case, it means the mobo type which is overprinted have a higher quality capacitors then it is really on this mobo, so this mobo failed the quality check but meet another quality class and have a correction label on it.
      This info is not direct from MSI but from a very close person and a good friend of mine.
      The CPU fan has a speed regulator which is controlled by the temperature profile in BIOS. Remember, there are the temperature settings for protecting the system from overheating and not in the main CPU. The main CPU has nothing to do with the temperature controlling system on the mobo. Yes, some CPU have the ability to communicate with the ASIC ic on the mobo but this is only possible when the OS supports the ACPI software what are comes with the mobo drivers. Through this function the OS can read the fun or funs speed, temperatures etc. This option is in most case installed when you install the chipset driver of the specified mobo.
      I touched the ASIC ( application-specific integrated circuit ) IC this means, the thermal management are controlled through the chipset, there are lets say the Intel® 82801FB I/O Controller which is mobo specific ( because of the chipset ) and all this stuff controls the thermal management of a mobo without the main CPU. The speed of the fan is in relation of the heat and the heat is in relation of lot of other thinks like dust, dirty, bad fan, worse thermal conductor between cpu or other ic and passive heat sink and of sourse with cpu overloading processes etc...
      You can check this in any reference guide for Intel® I/O Controller Hub made by Intel corporation.
      Conclusion, you can connect any fan on this controller but you have to keep in mind the voltage and current consumption of the fan what you wish to connect.
      Maybe I will write an article about this stuff and show how to power on the fan and control the speed of the fan without the cpu, but I think, this has nothing to do with repairing stuff but more with education.

  7. Zed Pato

    October 14, 2015 at 7:16 pm

    nice job sir Chris. What is the update sir about your esr meter?

    • Chris

      October 15, 2015 at 12:11 am

      Thank you for supporting my article.
      A very similar esr circuit of mine is on this link.
      A good friend of mine made the same esr meter from this site and works well.
      I can't find the schematic of my esr right now. That was many years ago when I made that measuring instrument.
      I hope this will help you.

    • Albert van Bemmelen

      October 15, 2015 at 3:54 am

      I have several schematics for building an ESR meter yourself. Also including the hex software for 'burning' the PIC or other microcontrollers in the project(s) used.
      So I do not know if and how I can help you? You can use smd components but that requires good solder skills and a steady hand when mounting the parts on a pcb. (Maybe not all projects include the pcb layout but have always a schematic).

      • Albert van Bemmelen

        October 15, 2015 at 3:06 pm

        Here some more links to DIY Meters/Testers:

        ESR tester=> http://kripton2035.free.fr/digital%20esr/esr-go-russian.html
        http://moemesto.ru/MIRON63 (The Russian guy Miron63 also makes a complete ESR_LCRF meter and can send it to you.)

        Transistor tester=> http://www.mikrocontroller.net/articles/AVR-Transistortester

  8. Anwar Shiekh

    October 14, 2015 at 8:27 pm

    Will the hot glue hold?

    • Chris

      October 15, 2015 at 3:50 am

      Anwar Shiekh thank you for supporting my article, I like your question really.
      Why? Because I have some experience with worse quality hot glue and your question are in place.
      From that time I use only high quality hot glues from Henkel which has a strong gluing characteristic and melt on 135C.
      The cpu can never got so hot where the hot glue will melt, if yes then I have no more problem because I have to use a fire extinguisher and have no more PC. 🙂

  9. Kosta

    October 15, 2015 at 8:19 am

    Kudos for you Christian! Svaka cast Kristijane!

    • Chris

      October 16, 2015 at 7:10 pm

      Thank you countryman / hvala. 🙂

  10. Paris Azis

    October 15, 2015 at 7:35 pm

    Good job Chris!

  11. Humberto

    October 15, 2015 at 10:13 pm

    Good repair, well explained and shown with high quality photos Chris, as usual. Congrat and keep up.

  12. Ulises Aguilar Pazzani

    October 16, 2015 at 9:29 am

    MR Robert Adzic, a very clever explanation and slick Job, keep it on

  13. Mark

    October 16, 2015 at 10:54 am

    Hey Chris,
    Thanks for a very informative article. It is important to make necessary changes when computers are upgraded or changes are made. I have loaded up my computer so much that I really need to upgrade my cooling.
    Thanks for the reminder.

    • Chris

      October 16, 2015 at 10:39 pm

      You are well come Mark and thank you for supporting my article.

  14. angelo

    November 28, 2016 at 6:46 am




    CPU : 95*F

    GPU : 115*F

    MAINBOARD : 105*F

    FAN : 2530 RPM

    IS IT NORMAL ???



Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.