Comments on: 32” LG LCD TV (32 LG 5000-ZA), no starting repair

By: Steve

Steve — Fri, 03 Apr 2020 15:13:53 +0000

Thank you very much for detailed info, I have here the same board with no power from the pin's apart from the 5 volts, I have stand buy LED flash 3 times then extinguish, I have changed the caps but dont have that little 8 leg IC, I will try and get one to see if I can get my TV up and working again, does that I start the unit, wake up the system?

Thanks

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By: Rabi

Rabi — Fri, 14 Feb 2020 02:14:30 +0000

In reply to Paris Azis.

Hi good work..I have the same concerns even lg black screen blue led. In summary which piece I must change

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By: Makis Karag

Makis Karag — Mon, 22 Jul 2019 14:20:34 +0000

Hello,

I think this is the schematic of the PSU if anyone needs it.

https://www.electronica-pt.com/esquema/lcd/lg-lcd-08h-3237-rev2.0-eay40504401-eay40505001-crb31131901-crb31189601-26365/

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By: Paris Azis

Paris Azis — Wed, 20 Feb 2019 21:12:15 +0000

In reply to Posian.

Hello Posian

I have revisited this article after a long time since you put your comment. Although it seems meaningless now, after so long time, perhaps there is still a chance of survival of that set of yours (if not thrown away). I think that the problem is in one or more dried electrolytic capacitors. So do a thorough ESR testing of all of these, especially in the power supply and the inverters pcb for the back light of the screen. I hope that it is not too late for that set.

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By: Posian

Posian — Sat, 25 Jun 2016 11:44:21 +0000

Hello Paris! I read your post because I think I have the same problem with same model tv; but in this case R109 is in place and it is 4701 marked, wich is 4k7 ohms (I also check it with the multimeter); could it be possible to be bad contact on this resistor or it could be something else? The tv takes the start command (the red led is blinking) but the image in not appearing; only after some good trying (10-15x) the image appear. (I am not a proffesional electronist)
Anyhow it is hard to say without checking all, I know, in fact what I want to ask is how to be sure that the problem is not just from the bad soldering of R109, if from measuring it shows the right value?
Thank you, and great info!

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By: Paris Azis

Paris Azis — Thu, 24 Mar 2016 18:18:48 +0000

In reply to Dennis Breda.

Hello Dennis

Thank you for your kind words. Please excuse my delay to answer you...

Best Regards

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By: Dennis Breda

Dennis Breda — Fri, 15 Jan 2016 18:59:02 +0000

You are very tenacious. Great report.

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By: Paris Azis

Paris Azis — Fri, 27 Nov 2015 11:06:27 +0000

In reply to Albert van Bemmelen.

Hi Albert

You don't need to bother about that coding any longer. One way or another this repair is successfully over and ther set working just fine. Besides I was sure about that E1 component right from the moment I saw those 2,5V appearing at its open (reference) pin. And the final test proved that it really was a TL431 in smd form.
So "we are moving forward, to a new (successful) repair"...

Greetings

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By: Albert van Bemmelen

Albert van Bemmelen — Thu, 26 Nov 2015 15:44:09 +0000

In reply to Paris Azis.

Don't worry Paris, I'm just so in to electronics that I need
all the info I can get and therefore I bought the new SMD
Codebook 2014. And the fact that my hobby mainly costs money
is not important. Everything does so why bother. On page 847
I found out that a SOT-23 type ZTLV431 exists with SMD code
S1A - giving 1.24 to 10V +/-0.5% at max also 10mA. On page
2071 I found a TLV431 with SMD code RAA. And on page 541 there
was mentioned a LM431 component with code 3A. And that same
type of component exists as codes: A5 to AA, and also EA1 &
EA2 or as N1A, N1B or N1C. I hope this info helps.

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By: Paris Azis

Paris Azis — Tue, 24 Nov 2015 15:58:10 +0000

In reply to Albert van Bemmelen.

Hi Albert

I hope you didn’t buy this catalog only to see if that E1 is included therein because I already feel distressed and even guilty for provoking you to the relevant expense!!…
Apart from that I thank you once again for your warm approval of my methodology when troubleshooting.
Finally experience is of course the best guide in this task, but very unfortunately it needs a lot of working years in order for it first to accumulate in our brains as a vital info and then to be converted or developed to permanent inspiring guidance.
This is exactly what calls for patience (a quality I also didn’t have when I was young as it usually happens) and this is the most difficult but also so important element to be obtained for a person involved in electronics (in general, but especially in the repairs’ field)…

My greetings to you

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