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650 Watt ATX Power Supply Shutdown Problem Solved

By on December 19, 2016










Another good friend brought me yesterday his defect model TX-650W ADVANCE desktop PC Power Supply.

As soon I tested it with both my ATX testers it was off in a split second after turning it on.


It had a large Fan (with blue led lighting) which helped killing any sound/noise plus Thermo-Control. After opening the case I noticed all bad E-caps inside that were bulged already. And the Power Supply was controlled by a 14 pins UTC 339 and a 16 pins UTC 7500 chip.



On previous photo the 220uF Electrolyte Capacitor C24 is visible that had exploded completely out of its outer cap. And all 5 other bulged and leaky E-caps.



After I replaced all 6 of them (C24 to C29), I gave the Supply another test run with both my ATX testers. Below photo shows my ATX tester with 5 Load resistors and only the -5V led is off because there isn’t any -5V voltage present. So the 650 Watt Supply clearly works just fine again!


And next photo shows the easy to read ATX Power Supply tester in action.


I only used a couple of spare E-caps I salvaged from other devices. And so another successful repair ends after again spending almost no costs or time. The bulged smelly E-caps I threw in the special chemical waste box to save the environment from getting more polluted.

My friend will be very pleased that he doesn’t need to buy another expensive replacement PSU for his big tower PC. Which I am sure is another good thing for our mutual environment.


Albert van Bemmelen, Weert , The Netherlands.

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Note: You can read his previous repair article in the below link:




  1. Joop

    December 19, 2016 at 9:18 pm

    Good Job Albert

    • Albert van Bemmelen

      December 20, 2016 at 2:46 am

      Thanks Joop. It was a good but easy repair of course. But at no charge for a good friend which makes repairing fun and worthwhile!

    • M

      December 20, 2016 at 7:03 pm

      I think its no more professional telling the same faulty of Bad caps, it seems evert person posting on this block with a faulty power supply has got Bad caps as his solution

      • Albert van Bemmelen

        December 21, 2016 at 5:50 am

        Of course true M. But that is just because it almost always are those Bad caps! And seldom other parts. Or for instance a Bad Fan connection someone disconnected unintensionally by destroying its connectors, and by doing so activating the thermal protection circuit.
        If you look at some of my previous PSU repairs you will notice it also were Bad Transformers, Bad (blown open) Resistors, and occasionally Bad Mosfets too! If they are successfully fixed I guess they must be called professional repairs. If they are very interesting is another matter.

  2. Rich Beinlich

    December 19, 2016 at 10:17 pm

    Question: Why would you use used capacitors for a repair?

    • YH Wong

      December 19, 2016 at 11:01 pm

      Since it is working. Why can't be it placed ? Does not mean used capacitor goes to the dustbin (:

    • Albert van Bemmelen

      December 20, 2016 at 2:19 am

      Only used good ones qualify. Bad ones I throw away. It works! If it doesn't it will show. Just like used resistors or coils can be used again. But only when e-caps are never overheated above their maximum working temperature which in that case reduces their life span by about 50%. Which no doubt requires good solder skills to keep components undamaged. And if e-caps are bad it easily shows when measured with the Blue ESR meter.

    • angelo

      December 20, 2016 at 2:30 am

      Is there any prob to use used caps ?

      • Albert van Bemmelen

        December 20, 2016 at 9:41 am

        With prob you mean problem? The usual : The capacity and the ESR value need to be equal or better than the original bad e-capacitor. Same goes for its working max voltage of course. And the max allowed temp is given on any Cap too.
        And it mustn't be dented,pinced, pricked or in any other ways damaged. Like also the e-cap pins/legs must stay thoroughly connected to its inside.

  3. Parasuraman S

    December 19, 2016 at 10:57 pm

    Good and quick repair! Thanks for sharing!

  4. Robert Calk

    December 20, 2016 at 2:29 am

    Nice job, Albert. Thanks for sharing the repair with us.

  5. angelo

    December 20, 2016 at 2:32 am

    The last one looks good which is smallest in size
    Why did u change it as well ?

    • Albert van Bemmelen

      December 20, 2016 at 10:00 am

      Angelo, that is simply because the smallest 220uF 16V e-cap (C24) was completely blown open out of its aluminium outside (out of its hulse/cap). The brownish colored 'naked' inside is visible next to its empty cap. So it was damaged too!
      Smaller e-caps have bad ventiel top caps that hardly are able to break open as a way to let the inside build up pressure escape. So they launch the outside cap away instead.

  6. Bulent NUR

    December 20, 2016 at 3:22 am

    Good job, very ease repair.

  7. Mark

    December 20, 2016 at 6:05 am

    Well done Albert, those E-caps will get you every time!

  8. Suranga Electronics Sri Lanka

    December 20, 2016 at 5:08 pm

    Hi.Mr.Albert .

    Good good.. Successfully Power Unit Repair . Thanks You..

  9. josé walter tenório

    December 20, 2016 at 5:41 pm

    Owed for sharing his experience in the sewing of this source, stay with the peace of God.

  10. angelo

    December 21, 2016 at 9:38 am

    Thank u sir Albert van Bemmelen
    Can i use 100v/100uf cap instead of 50v/100uf ?

    One more thing can 450v/330 uf be used instead
    Of 200v/330 uf if not then any suggestions ?

    Thank u sir

    • Albert van Bemmelen

      December 22, 2016 at 4:16 am

      A few people say that doubling the voltage by choosing an e-cap with a higher DC working voltage is not necessary or even worse. Because they say it causes an ESR value rise. But I always choose a replacement e-cap with a higher voltage if I have one. Else I choose an equal repacement. If the given maximum voltage on an e-cap in a circuit exceeds that safe value it may explode and become useless. So I am sure your selected capacitors are well in safe limits! Keep the plus and minus poles on the correct sides in the PCB also to avoid any explosion or damaging of your e-cap from happening. And be aware that also unpolarised e-caps exist.

  11. Chaminda

    December 22, 2016 at 7:49 pm

    Mr. Albert.
    Thank s for sharing your repair experience.

  12. Yogesh Panchal

    December 22, 2016 at 8:59 pm

    I found near 70% problems in PC SMPS due to the Bad Caps .
    Some time Caps of higher Value are bigger in size and not easily fit on the Location.
    Thanks for sharing the article.

  13. Angelo

    December 23, 2016 at 12:05 am


    Then i'll go with
    because i dont have
    exact parts
    thank you sir...

    • Albert van Bemmelen

      December 25, 2016 at 3:14 am

      I'm glad Angelo I could help. I hope your Power Supply (? I read your post in another article) will be working again after the e-caps are replaced. And my Blessings to you and your loved ones too, and have a very good new year 2017!

  14. Albert van Bemmelen

    December 23, 2016 at 1:03 am

    Thank you Yogesh for the statistic view on the subject of these bad e-caps. Although higher voltage e-caps are often bigger, it in some cases didn't stop me to nevertheless still use them. By just drilling another hole next to one of both original e-cap holes in the PCB. And if neccesary adding a wire connection to the pin in the drilled hole.

  15. Jandiseni

    December 25, 2016 at 5:26 pm

    Thank you for sharing your experience sir. Job nicely done.

  16. angelo

    December 29, 2016 at 5:11 am

    thank you sir

    merry x-mas n happy new year in advance

    for you ur family & everyone

    • Jestine Yong

      December 29, 2016 at 11:13 am

      Hi Angelo,

      Thanks for the photo. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you too.


  17. Humberto

    December 31, 2016 at 9:35 pm

    Albert, a good repair and other device saved from the dump. What a bad quality of e-caps nowadays.

  18. Angelo

    January 2, 2017 at 10:46 am

    Thank you sir
    Dear sir
    i have a question
    i've noticed that
    psu comes along with
    24 pins 20 4=24
    what will happen
    if i dont use extra 4 pins which is attached to 20 pins
    thank you..

  19. Albert van Bemmelen

    January 8, 2017 at 11:10 pm

    The old ATX1 20 pins type connector has also a -5V pin (p.18). Which is not connected and not available on a new ATX2 24 pins connector. And the extra 4 pins on an ATX2 connector carry extra +12V1, +3.3V, +5V and COM connections. Most likely for higher currents and so more Power on those new ATX2 PSU's.
    If you need them depends on the type of PC mainboard you are using and the Power they need. For instance a Quad Core Xeon X5460 CPU on an Asus mainboard alone needs already 120 Watt of Power! (And those ATX2 Power Supplies often give much higher 3.3V and 5V currents too).

  20. Anwar Shiekh

    October 1, 2017 at 10:20 am

    Nice load tester, but even at 30W it soon gets too hot.


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