Failure Of A New Induction Cooker Board Resulted In Restoration Of Butterfly Model Premium
This induction cooker looked like have developed a habit of visiting me every three years! I repaired this in August, 2016 and again in September, 2019. Here it was brought to me in August, 2022! Kindly see my previous articles:
This time, anyhow the IC (abbreviated for Induction Cooker!) was found in a very bad condition. The top ceramic plate had come off! Customer as usual reported to me that these are handy work of his mischievous children. Well, professionally commercial technicians might consider such children as their potential agents, similar to lizard and other pests that damage electronic devices!
Because of the reasons that this board had undergone repairs before, I suggested replacement of the board by a new one, which is now easily available in the market. I heard that even new board with touch buttons is now available, though yet to see one. I removed the old board, panel and cleaned the inside of the IC very well. Then fixed the new board, with its panel kept on one side.
Lubricated the fan and fixed it in its place. Kept the coil on top and completed interconnections and switched on, after keeping the ceramic plate and a stainless steel vessel on top with little water in it. On switch on, the LED segment blinked with repeated beeps, which is an indication of power complaints in the board. After a few seconds, one resistor in the primary power section burst! After rechecking that every connection was proper, and there was no load from the fan either, I replaced this resistor. Then checked the diodes and transistors on the board and found these to be ok.
After making futile attempts to revive the new board, I kept it aside for detailed study. Then checked the old board and ascertained what went wrong with it. Conducted cold tests and found out that the control buttons are either leaky or open. The ESR of one 10uF cap was out. The small disk caps were out of range. So, replaced all these.
The mains cord was found to be dangerously exposed at the connection end, near the rear of IC. It was found twisted too! I replaced the mains cord with a new sturdy one rated for 15A use. I had already checked for any defective components on the main board and went ahead with the restoration work only after that. After cleaning the boards thoroughly, I assembled everything back temporarily and kept the ceramic plate and repeated my test like before. Bingo, it was found working very well! Checked it by prolonged use, keeping aside our IC far away and ensured that it was working very well. Then fixed the board and other screws very well.
Provided extra washers on top of the buttons to ensure that press to on work smoothly when operated from its control. The button switches with exact height of lengths are difficult to get. Used double sided LED backlight fixing high temp withstanding tapes and affixed the ceramic plate in its place.
Anyhow, work accomplished very satisfactorily, leaving aside one new board to be trouble shot later.
This article was prepared for you by Parasuraman Subramanian from India. He is 72 years old and has more than 30 years’ experience in handling antique equipment like Valve Radio, Amps, Reel Tape Recorders and currently studying latest tech-classes conducted by Kerala State Electronics Technicians’ Association. He has done graduation in BBA degree, private diploma in Radio Engineering and retired as MD of a USA company. Presently working as Consultant to Hospital and other institutions.
Please give a support by clicking on the social buttons below. Your feedback on the post is welcome. Please leave it in the comments.
P.S-If you enjoyed reading this, click here to subscribe to my blog (free subscription). That way, you’ll never miss a post. You can also forward this website link to your friends and colleagues-thanks!
You may check on his previous article on Changing Backlight Of Thompson UHD LED TV 102cm And Panel Breaking Case Of SONY KDL-40W600B