Fixing Internally Defect HDMi Chassis Connector On Philips 27 Inch Monitor
Recently the internal plastic of my only HDMi port on my heavily used 27 inch Philips Model 273E3Q monitor broke off. And my AMVA Led monitor therefore no longer accepted any of my HDMi cable plugs because of the now crooked pins. Why I now had to use my previously fixed 32 inch Samsung TV that has 2 HDMi ports to be able to use my quad-core desktop computer in the meantime.
Before I started soldering of the now defect HDMi connector I made following photos to make sure that the replacement connector is placed back in exactly the same way it originally was.
Because it was a real struggle to desolder this defect HDMi connector in one good piece without damaging any of the board solder pads, the result afterwards was devastating! As next photos show. All very thin pads up to one came loose while desoldering the very hard to remove defect connector.
Obviously I was facing a lot of work if I was going to fix my 27 inch monitor board. A used board that was available from a seller simply was way too expensive! That seller sadly asked 82,55 Euro plus an insane extra 68,53 Euro for shipping price which for me was out of the question! Because my older monitor from 2012 only did cost about ½ of that!
Below the removed bad HDMi port, or what is left of it! And although I also had bought special low temperature solder hoping this would help to easily remove this very strong attached connector, it sadly was no help at all! Maybe the seller sold me the wrong 2% flux low temp solder? (why his advert already no longer was visible?)
Above macro close up photo shows the 18 now broken loose pads. I traced all 19 pins and noticed that pin 14 is NC (reserved), although next XBOX video repair apparently also connected that pin too! See that video with good HDMi repair instructions here: (Although it is still odd that they used pin 14 too that in the next XBOX schematic also wasn’t used at all?) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VagYysWnZ_w Here a link to the XBOX HDMi circuit: https://imgur.com/a/7Usi99m
The excellent Youtube video showed what tools are needed to make this repair work! Next tools and Items could also be obtained from sellers on Aliexpress. First a mini grinding pen.
And also special UV mask with a RL-14A UV light were bought. Plus 2 rework sheets with copper pads.
Next screen copy shows the seller from 2 of those copper rework sheets were ordered.
Following by a few photos of some of the IC’s that were used on this Philips monitor board with board number 715G4509-M02-000-004K. That also has one VGA and one DVI connector. And 2 audio connectors next to the blue VGA connector.
The small rectangular popup info windows in these adverts unnecessary hide the underlying info and make copying these pages more difficult and sadly less attractive.
U501 and U502 10 pins smd chips type marking .117OJ are both for all 8 data and clock signals coming from the Novatek NT 68677UMFG chip that connect to the HDMi port. U503 is a type C30ZH marked chip. R517 is 100 ohm. D501 marked WW1 must be a sot-23 BAT54C Schottky diode. R516 and R528 measured 1Kohm. All no doubt are still fine!
Below 6 pin smd C30ZH chip is used twice on the VGA port, 3 times on the DVI port, and apparently only used ones on the HDMi port. D501 is a BAT54C Schottky diode.
Below the also ordered new 19 pin HDMI chassis replacement connectors. With on the right the afterwards sadly useless low temp 2% flux solder.
Next photos show the monitor video board backside and how the monitor looks after it was disassembled. Which as often only was possible by removing the black outside plastic frame on top of the LCD screen first without breaking anything. And by carefully disconnecting the cable that is attached to the 6 pin mini connector of the frontbuttons board in the front of that plastic frame.
Both Power and monitor Video board are mounted into a metal frame that easily can be removed from the back of the LCD screen by just removing 2 small screws from the left and right side. And the video board is easily removed by unscrewing 3 screws and disconnecting connectors CN605, CN401, CN701 and the 30 pins lcd CN408 flatcable.
Above photo showed the likely perfect EMS shielding metal backplate that houses both boards. And also makes a sturdy mounting possible for the stander with the back of the metal cased LED screen. Or for mounting on a wall.
Next photo shows a close-up of the HDMi circuit. Plus additional info on this type-A HDMI port. (Notice the standard not connected pin 14!)
Followed by a last photo that shows the label that is visible on the back of my Philips 27 inch monitor.
And here the 79 pages matching service manual of this Philips AMVA LED monitor can be found: https://www.manualslib.com/download/1367208/Philips-273e3qhsb-93.html
Notice the very useful HDMi circuit on page 18!
Plus here also the 27 inch monitor user manual can be found:
Hopefully this article also helps other readers with this model monitor to also fix or prevent similar HDMi port problems!
From the HDMi circuit on page 18 of the service manual the function of both the 10 pins chips U501 and U502 are known. They are Ultra low capacitance ESD protection arrays type AZ1045-04F.
And 6 pins U503 is a Low capacitance high ESD level protection array type AZC199-04S.
PS: My video board had no optocouplers inserted on position OC1 or OC2. But the one used board that was available through a seller on Aliexpress for a way too high price had optocoupler OC1 placed. Apparently these boards have different versions. Likely different firmware versions because the boards are identical.
Conclusion: Handle plugging in your HDMi cables with extra care to prevent also having to replace your hard to replace HDMi connector because of the apparently very weak easily breakable internal plastic parts.
In my case this problem started when I multiple times had to switch between 2 HDMi cables. I therefore already ordered a 2 to 1 HDMi switch box but that sadly came too late to prevent this issue from happening.
Albert van Bemmelen, Weert, The Netherlands.
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Note: You can read his previous article on Fixing Brand New Never Working Nano 3.0 Arduino Modules