Fixing Internally Defect HDMi Chassis Connector On Philips 27 Inch Monitor
Recently the internal plastic of my only HDMi port on my heavily used 27 inch Philips Model 273E3Q monitor broke off. And my AMVA Led monitor therefore no longer accepted any of my HDMi cable plugs because of the now crooked pins. Why I now had to use my previously fixed 32 inch Samsung TV that has 2 HDMi ports to be able to use my quad-core desktop computer in the meantime.
Before I started soldering of the now defect HDMi connector I made following photos to make sure that the replacement connector is placed back in exactly the same way it originally was.
Because it was a real struggle to desolder this defect HDMi connector in one good piece without damaging any of the board solder pads, the result afterwards was devastating! As next photos show. All very thin pads up to one came loose while desoldering the very hard to remove defect connector.
Obviously I was facing a lot of work if I was going to fix my 27 inch monitor board. A used board that was available from a seller simply was way too expensive! That seller sadly asked 82,55 Euro plus an insane extra 68,53 Euro for shipping price which for me was out of the question! Because my older monitor from 2012 only did cost about ½ of that!
Below the removed bad HDMi port, or what is left of it! And although I also had bought special low temperature solder hoping this would help to easily remove this very strong attached connector, it sadly was no help at all! Maybe the seller sold me the wrong 2% flux low temp solder? (why his advert already no longer was visible?)
Above macro close up photo shows the 18 now broken loose pads. I traced all 19 pins and noticed that pin 14 is NC (reserved), although next XBOX video repair apparently also connected that pin too! See that video with good HDMi repair instructions here: (Although it is still odd that they used pin 14 too that in the next XBOX schematic also wasn’t used at all?) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VagYysWnZ_w Here a link to the XBOX HDMi circuit: https://imgur.com/a/7Usi99m
The excellent Youtube video showed what tools are needed to make this repair work! Next tools and Items could also be obtained from sellers on Aliexpress. First a mini grinding pen.
And also special UV mask with a RL-14A UV light were bought. Plus 2 rework sheets with copper pads.
Next screen copy shows the seller from 2 of those copper rework sheets were ordered.
Following by a few photos of some of the IC’s that were used on this Philips monitor board with board number 715G4509-M02-000-004K. That also has one VGA and one DVI connector. And 2 audio connectors next to the blue VGA connector.
The small rectangular popup info windows in these adverts unnecessary hide the underlying info and make copying these pages more difficult and sadly less attractive.
U501 and U502 10 pins smd chips type marking .117OJ are both for all 8 data and clock signals coming from the Novatek NT 68677UMFG chip that connect to the HDMi port. U503 is a type C30ZH marked chip. R517 is 100 ohm. D501 marked WW1 must be a sot-23 BAT54C Schottky diode. R516 and R528 measured 1Kohm. All no doubt are still fine!
Below 6 pin smd C30ZH chip is used twice on the VGA port, 3 times on the DVI port, and apparently only used ones on the HDMi port. D501 is a BAT54C Schottky diode.
Below the also ordered new 19 pin HDMI chassis replacement connectors. With on the right the afterwards sadly useless low temp 2% flux solder.
Next photos show the monitor video board backside and how the monitor looks after it was disassembled. Which as often only was possible by removing the black outside plastic frame on top of the LCD screen first without breaking anything. And by carefully disconnecting the cable that is attached to the 6 pin mini connector of the frontbuttons board in the front of that plastic frame.
Both Power and monitor Video board are mounted into a metal frame that easily can be removed from the back of the LCD screen by just removing 2 small screws from the left and right side. And the video board is easily removed by unscrewing 3 screws and disconnecting connectors CN605, CN401, CN701 and the 30 pins lcd CN408 flatcable.
Above photo showed the likely perfect EMS shielding metal backplate that houses both boards. And also makes a sturdy mounting possible for the stander with the back of the metal cased LED screen. Or for mounting on a wall.
Next photo shows a close-up of the HDMi circuit. Plus additional info on this type-A HDMI port. (Notice the standard not connected pin 14!)
Followed by a last photo that shows the label that is visible on the back of my Philips 27 inch monitor.
And here the 79 pages matching service manual of this Philips AMVA LED monitor can be found: https://www.manualslib.com/download/1367208/Philips-273e3qhsb-93.html
Notice the very useful HDMi circuit on page 18!
Plus here also the 27 inch monitor user manual can be found:
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/265767/Philips-273e3qhsb-00.html
Hopefully this article also helps other readers with this model monitor to also fix or prevent similar HDMi port problems!
From the HDMi circuit on page 18 of the service manual the function of both the 10 pins chips U501 and U502 are known. They are Ultra low capacitance ESD protection arrays type AZ1045-04F.
And 6 pins U503 is a Low capacitance high ESD level protection array type AZC199-04S.
PS: My video board had no optocouplers inserted on position OC1 or OC2. But the one used board that was available through a seller on Aliexpress for a way too high price had optocoupler OC1 placed. Apparently these boards have different versions. Likely different firmware versions because the boards are identical.
Conclusion: Handle plugging in your HDMi cables with extra care to prevent also having to replace your hard to replace HDMi connector because of the apparently very weak easily breakable internal plastic parts.
In my case this problem started when I multiple times had to switch between 2 HDMi cables. I therefore already ordered a 2 to 1 HDMi switch box but that sadly came too late to prevent this issue from happening.
Albert van Bemmelen, Weert, The Netherlands.
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Anwar Yunas Shiekh
September 30, 2023 at 9:11 am
I am surprised low melting point solder didn't help.
Waleed Rishmawi
September 30, 2023 at 1:34 pm
wow. that is a lot of damage here but it is still fixable. what tempreture low soldering did you get? what tempreture did you use and what was the air flow on your station? I have done worse on my first attempt of de soldering an HDMI port because it is not an easy thing to do. I am sure the next time you try it will be easier and enjoyable....despite all the damage done here it is not any easy thing to restore the pads but it is doable. keep up the good work..it gets easier by time. do not get dicouraged. have a blessed day.
Albert van Bemmelen
September 30, 2023 at 8:30 pm
I only used my Ersa MS6000 solder station set around 350 to 360 degrees Celsius. But I probably better should have used my hot air Gordak 952-A station instead, only because I tried the low temp solder first which was a real disaster.
Waleed Rishmawi
October 3, 2023 at 3:01 pm
Albert: that is a reasonable temperature but what what the air flow rate? are you sure your hot air station is calibrated right? the damage shown in the photo does not match your air temp. something is wrong. you can go on line and search for machine calibration and make sure that the temp. displayed on the screen matches your outcome of the nozzle. have a blessed day
Albert van Bemmelen
September 30, 2023 at 2:17 pm
Yes that was a very disappointing experience. Maybe I should have used more flux instead of the original solder with only 2% flux, I have no idea why it failed?
I didn't use my hot air solder station to remove the bad connector because I was afraid I would loose any of the smaller components too close to the HDMi connector. I didn't want to fry them either. Why I only used my Ersa MS6000 solder station instead. But afterwards I probably better just should have used my Gordak hot air station like I normally do when I remove connectors.
Waleed Rishmawi
October 3, 2023 at 3:04 pm
Albert: yes when dealing with hot stations always put a lot of flux to make a quick transfer of heat in the soldering pads and make sure your machine is calibrated right other wise you are being trick with the real temp. coming out of the nozzle. also keep your air flow to low so the tiny component will not fly off board when they are loose on board. have a blessed day.
Parasuraman S
September 30, 2023 at 5:43 pm
Looking at the heading and reading at the start itself, I guessed it must be from none other than you and indeed it is! The more I delved into your article, the more I lost myself! I am yet to get an answer within myself, whether the problem was resolved or not! You are always a scare for me!
Albert van Bemmelen
September 30, 2023 at 8:46 pm
At the moment I'm still waiting for the UV coating to arrive, and on the HDMi replacement connector before I'm able to finish this repair. I already started to repair the broken copper tracks of the HDMi port with the in the article mentioned copper rework sheets that already arrived very soon. I'm sure the repair will work out fine after seeing the in the article mentioned excellent example video.
Also the 3 in to 1 out HDMi switch box already arrived and it excellently switches without any external needed power supply on the through the HDMi ports 5V provided power signal. This way I no longer have to switch any HDMi cables and spare my Philips 27 inch monitor HDMi input connector from getting any further damage. This perfectly designed switchbox
Carlos Castaneda
October 1, 2023 at 3:27 am
Maybe it is better to cut all HDMI pins very close to the bad connector and then try to unsolder the connector itself using a hot air gun.
Albert van Bemmelen
October 5, 2023 at 11:06 pm
Maybe, but the pads below the 19 pins are still very close to each other and cutting those tracks wouldn't do much good either. Removing such a very strong solder mounted HDMi connector is always a big risk in these circumstances. But I probably still should have used my hot air solderstation gun for better providing heat on to the entire HDMi area instead.
Imoudu.O
October 1, 2023 at 5:26 am
I could imagine how stressful it would have been for you in attempting to remove the hdmi.Tiny smd around any ic to be removed can be protected from desoldering when using hot gun by covering those tiny smd with flat old razor blades.That's what I do and it works for me.I wish you success in the next attempt on the monitor.
Albert van Bemmelen
October 5, 2023 at 10:58 pm
I do not have or use Razor blades Imoudu. But I could have used kapton tape which is excellent in use by sticking on to the board and it is also perfectly heat resistant.
But I counted too much on the good effect of using low temperature solder which completely destroyed the pads to the HDMi copper tracks. In the meantime I now bought even lower temp 10gram Sn42bi58 138 ℃ solder which may work a lot better next time when needed.
Mario
October 1, 2023 at 5:58 am
Vous êtes d'une patience qui me dépasse.. Bravo. Moi je ne réparer pas ces choses..
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You have a patience that surpasses me. Bravo. I don't fix these things...
Albert van Bemmelen
October 5, 2023 at 11:09 pm
I simply have no other option if I want to restore the use of the HDMi port on my 27 inch monitor. Also because the other video out ports are of lesser quality.
Yogesh Panchal
October 5, 2023 at 12:56 am
Good Job! Albert ,
Alex is Master in microscopic soldering & good quality of tools definitely make difference in quality work & without microscope it is very difficult to do this type of work.
Albert van Bemmelen
October 26, 2023 at 12:13 pm
He sure is! And he no doubt uses tools and equipment that are quite expensive and priceless in these kind of circumstances!
Albert van Bemmelen
October 27, 2023 at 10:40 pm
Update: Today 27-10-'23 my Philips 27 inch monitor is back in action and like new again! Yesterday after carefully adding new tracks and pads with also using UV epoxy coating (the great UV substance with UV light that was mentioned in the article) I managed to restore all 18 broken off tracks. Which was a hell of a job! But I made it a lot easier to bend all ground gnd pins of the HDMi connector up, away from the board. So it was much easier to only solder all the signal wires onto the board plus the 5V track on pin18. Also pin14 that was not connected was bend up and left unsoldered. The 4 bend up gnd pins were together wired to ground. And pin 2 was also wired because all those bend up pins had no tracks to avoid shorting solder problems. And by carefully using only a few miniscule drops from the cap of the 10ml/cc UV tube by just using the point of a mini screwdriver covering all repaired solderconnections was a super success!
Audioman
May 5, 2024 at 7:23 am
Hi, I have a problem with a Philips PC monitor model 273E3LHSB, the monitor at some point on stopped working and did not show signs of life. I opened the monitor and checked the PSU and the voltages were all correct, on the motherboard instead, I noticed that the R710 resistance of 5.1 ohm 2 Watt was very hot (143 C) then I decided to replace the two voltage regulators of 3.3V (U701) and 1.8V (U703) and the monitor came back on. the problem is that the image on the panel is distorted and therefore I can not understand what the problem is and how I can identify it. It may be that the Novatek NT68677UMFG control chip is damaged, but I don’t know how to test it. If anyone could help me understand the problem, that would be great, thank you in advance.
Wally
April 8, 2024 at 11:20 am
I have a computer motherboard where a C30zH chip has gone bad on it. I see you listed the part number here and was just curious to see if the c16 chip is an equal replacement for the c30 chip? Do the numbers mean anything or are those production/ batch marks?