Comments on: 4 tube Fluorescent desktop lamp with electronic ballast repair

By: Joel

Joel — Thu, 24 Jul 2025 04:44:58 +0000

In my search for the part no. EBCF-127-120V-LDF, I was able to find a cross reference model number to a part made by Philips Advance, ICF-2S26-H1-LD. Also the Robertson PSM226CQMVDWCE (3P20145). Though not the same part and slightly wider dimension, but I made it fit into the base of my floor lamp. There are other updated ballast that will also work but this was the first one I saw and worked for me.

It seems the Chinese factory that made the EBCF-127-120V-LDF no longer makes it and was replaced by another part. Chenghe Elex CH40-120B Electronic Ballast, I should of searched this but I was in a hurry, but it's still available in some sites. BTW Amazon Seller is trying to sell these for $95. Not worth it for a simple repair, IMHO.

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By: David Keeton

David Keeton — Tue, 07 Jun 2022 06:22:27 +0000

George, I appreciate this post! I have the same exact board in the base of a floor lamp. The board has gotten wet and also fried beyond repair. Do you have a source for where I can get the whole board?

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By: Bill

Bill — Wed, 25 Sep 2019 05:22:39 +0000

Great report George! My floor lamp has the same circuit and I was going to toss it after it quit. But my R1 (510 kOhm) was also open circuited exactly like yours. What an easy fix. Thanks for your great help.

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By: Rod. aka "Electroman"

Rod. aka "Electroman" — Mon, 12 Mar 2018 04:23:51 +0000

I opened my ballast. R1 tested bad. I paralleled two 1 Meg ohm resistors. Plugged the light in and it works.
This is an design problem with the selection of R1. It should be a higher wattage then 1/4 watt.

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By: Mike Hammett

Mike Hammett — Wed, 07 Mar 2018 17:28:57 +0000

In reply to Ron.

Ron - I'm working on the same exact problem. The MZ6 (PTC Thermistor) went open circuit so the FML27 tube won't preheat and light. Apparently, the MZ6 (Made-In-China) comes in many different resistances and current ratings. Without knowing either the full part number or the ML27 tube specs (i.e. preheat current and time delay) it almost impossible to source the part. I'm looking for a working unit so as to measure the resistance but havn't found one yet. Have you had any luck? Also, the schematic doesn't show it but there's a varistor in series with the C5//MZ6 components and the terminal 2 of the K1K2 (yellow wires) circuit. It should measure 3 ohms nominal.

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By: Ron

Ron — Fri, 16 Feb 2018 14:25:51 +0000

I'm trying to fix one of these. R3,4,5,6 toasted, also q1 and 2. Couldn't find any other problems so I replaced & everything seemed OK until I plugged the lamp in, then all of the above toasted again. I suspect PTC SPMZ6 might be the problem but I don't know how to test it. It seems this is not a valid part number so I can't just try a replacement, and I don't know how to spec a replacement. Any thoughts?

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By: EDWARD

EDWARD — Fri, 16 Feb 2018 00:38:56 +0000

HI GEAORGE. THANKS FOR SCHEMATIC - I FOUND BOTH TRANSISTORS SHORTED, BOARD WAS COOKED,SO THE ONLY REASONABLE WAY IS TO REPLACE THE ELECTRONIC BALLAST.

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By: Jagadish KV

Jagadish KV — Sat, 11 Mar 2017 13:36:57 +0000

Dear Persico,

What is the advantage by connecting one of the input (after Lo), to the junction of Output capacitors C6 & C7. Will it reduce Noise?

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By: suranga bandara, Suranga Electronics

suranga bandara, Suranga Electronics — Fri, 25 Mar 2016 11:33:34 +0000

Mr-George Persico,

Nice repair work done.
Thanks you.

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By: Gerald

Gerald — Wed, 23 Mar 2016 00:46:07 +0000

Nice repair George and thanks for sharing

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