Sensio Bella Blender Repair
This is a Sensio Bella Model# XJ-12412 Rocket Extract Pro Plus blender that my son wanted to see if I could repair for him. The light would come on but the blender didn’t work.
So I started taking it apart and figured that it was probably either a bad capacitor or a bad thermal fuse on the motor. Since it’s been a while that I’ve had an article to send in, I checked the capacitors and components on the power supply PCB first.
The next two photos show removing the fan and blender wheel so I can take the blender apart. If you repair one don’t forget that the blender wheel nut has left handed threads.
Everything checked to be good on the PCB. I checked the Triac, diodes including two Zener diodes (6.8, and 5.1), capacitors, transistors, and checked for bad solder joints, but found nothing wrong. So I knew that the thermal fuse on the motor was bad, and I was right. Without making this repair too long, I’ll get to it.
I removed the control pad PCB to make sure everything was ok, and it was ok. Then I removed the motor and looked for the thermal fuse. I could tell by the shape of the wire which one had the thermal fuse in it. I clipped off the zip ties and removed the metal strap from around the wires. Then I cut the paper that wraps around the wires so that I could separate the wires and start removing the shrink-wrap from the thermal fuse as you can see in the photos.
In the next several photos I show removing and replacing the thermal fuse with a new NTE 117C thermal fuse. The thermal fuse has the number 116 on it but the package says that it’s a 117C. The part number is NTE8115. I don’t trust crimp clamps – I always solder the wires in them after applying plenty of flux.
You can see in the photo above how the leads of the thermal fuse were bent – probably during installation. You should not bend the leads like that! No wonder the thermal fuse only lasted one year!
Anyway, the blender is repaired and back together. I’m sure my son will be happy that he doesn’t have to buy a new blender. And I’m glad that I repaired it and saved the blender from the garbage.
My son is very happy that he has his blender back working great! In the photo above, he’s making a very healthy smoothie with strawberries, kiwi, and other good stuff. I hope you enjoyed this repair.
Also, for those interested, I’m about halfway through Part 1 of my Accutron 214 article. So it shouldn’t be much longer before I send it in to Mr. Yong!
Robert Calk is a hobbyist from the USA who loves Electronics, Leatherworking, and Watchmaking. Please leave any comments you have below. Thanks.
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Please check out his previous repair article below:
https://jestineyong.com/bulova-accutron-watchmaster-600/
Parasuraman S
May 13, 2017 at 5:24 pm
Great! Something new and lot of information that I learnt today! Thanks for sharing!
Robert Calk
May 14, 2017 at 12:39 am
Thanks Parasuraman.
Albert van Bemmelen
May 13, 2017 at 5:30 pm
Good job Robert! If this new thermal fuse breaks open again like the original fuse, you can be sure it was the motor coil that really overheats and not the previous bend fuse leads. I was told in the past by a local electronic components seller to get a bit higher thermal fuse to replace the old one in a coffee machine which maybe was wrong advice? But if the coffee machine only produces steam after the old thermal fuse was replaced we can be sure that is caused by the heater element that has an internal short in part of the resistor heater wire. But I got no complaint after. Anyway, nice blender Robert, I must have seen these in our TV commercials before.
Robert Calk
May 14, 2017 at 12:44 am
Thanks Albert. You are right, but the blender is only one year old. I believe that bending the leads of the thermal fuse like they did shortened the life of the fuse(planned obsolescence).
I would normally go a little higher temp on the thermal fuse also but it was the only one I had around that temp. I need to order some more.
Albert van Bemmelen
May 15, 2017 at 3:00 pm
Although you successfully soldered the thermal fuse Robert, it is a risky procedure because it also easily could have destroyed the fuse by the high temperature of the solder. Which likely will be higher than the max temperature given on the fuse, why they probably use clamps.
Robert Calk
May 15, 2017 at 11:33 pm
That's true Albert, which is why I use plenty of heat sinks close to the fuse and solder the joints quickly. I should have mentioned that in the article. It's also why I leave the leads as long as possible.
nuhu adam
May 13, 2017 at 6:55 pm
Great work love the easy steps
Robert Calk
May 14, 2017 at 12:45 am
Thanks Nuhu.
Anthony
May 13, 2017 at 7:19 pm
Good on you Robert ! Great repair and sound sound advice to solder and not to trust the squeeze clamps !
May the blender continue to work for many years to come and good to see your son enjoys smoothies as
so many kids drink junk sodas or other rubbish! Well done
Kind Regards
Anthony
Robert Calk
May 14, 2017 at 12:51 am
Thanks Anthony. Yep, it doesn't take much more time to solder them, and since it's already apart you may as well do it then. It should last several years now. I did not put any stress on the thermal fuse where the leads enter it. If you need to bend them, you are supposed to hold the lead close to the fuse with pliers to keep from putting stress on it. They did not do that.
Suranga Electronics
May 14, 2017 at 1:52 am
Hi. Mr. Robert. Good job. I too had repaired this problem and the cause was an open fuse in the fan motor.
Robert Calk
May 15, 2017 at 11:34 pm
Thanks Suranga.
Andre Gopee
May 14, 2017 at 3:18 am
Nice job Robert... I am presently working on A Bullet Express blender myself. I am having a hard time figuring out what's wrong with it. Motor checks out fine and all the components on the board checks out fine also. I am trying to remove all the components and do a schematic for it to figure out the problem. Thanks for sharing.
Robert Calk
May 15, 2017 at 11:36 pm
Thanks Andre. Did the thermal fuse check to be good?
Henry
May 14, 2017 at 8:24 am
Nice article Robert. Well presented, well documented with clear pictures and well explained.
Robert Calk
May 14, 2017 at 9:29 am
Thanks, Henry. I'm glad you enjoyed it.
Gerald Musy
May 14, 2017 at 10:33 am
Good repair Robert, professionally done. Thanks for sharing.
Of course I am looking forward to read more about the Accutron 🙂
Cheers,
GM
Robert Calk
May 15, 2017 at 11:38 pm
Thanks Gerald. Part 1 of the Accutron articles should be up before too long.
Mathew Charles Karonga
May 14, 2017 at 9:03 pm
Thanks for sharing such a detailed repair article, well done for saving our environment. Resurrection of dead electronics devices is exciting area if you have such achievements.
Robert Calk
May 15, 2017 at 11:40 pm
Thanks Mathew. Plus we save money also when we don't have to buy a new device!
Yogesh Panchal
May 16, 2017 at 9:50 pm
Good job! sir,
Glad to see your article after so long time.
Robert Calk
May 17, 2017 at 1:31 am
Thanks, Yogesh. I'm just a hobbyist and do what I can when I can. I don't do this for a living. Most people that come to this website never contribute anything.
Victor
May 20, 2017 at 11:10 pm
Great Clark keep same all time
Robert Calk
May 20, 2017 at 11:37 pm
Thanks, Victor.
Humberto
June 3, 2017 at 8:52 pm
Hi Robert, good repair, and very good explainations and pictures as well. We will be waiting for your next article.
Robert Calk
June 5, 2017 at 10:49 pm
Thanks Humberto. Good luck with the marketing.
gilles
October 29, 2020 at 11:54 pm
Thanks for this great tutorial!
I have a question I'm hoping you can answer.
I want to replace a thermal fuse and it came with two squeeze connectors (small cylindrical metal pieces)
What do I use to ... and how do I crimp these on?
Cheers!
Mo
December 15, 2021 at 1:28 am
Thanks for the tutorial. I am trying to fix mine but it doesn't have the thermal fuse. all I saw was the metal strap but I expected a thermal fuse there like seen in your pictures but there was none. do you know where could it be?