Sony AC-L10 replacement Adapter Fix/repair
Don’t buy a cheap replacement power supply! – YouTube
Why?
Not only it generates RF airwaves and induces a lot of unwanted interference in your home Power net, but makes it also impossible to use your original Sony 8mm ccd-trv3e-trv13e,trv23e,trv45e,trv55e,trv65e,trv69e,trv75,trv715 videocamera because of the disturbances present in your precious videos.
But here is the solution to what you can do as a repair engineer to fix that horrible badly interference generating Power Supply so it functions as an original Sony Power Adapter like it is supposed to !!
Open up your not original device with a screwdriver and look at the primary side of the SMPS pcb. Probably you’ll see that on the Primary side some components were left out. Like the Common Mode Choke Inductor Filter. That is most likely just replaced by two wires were the 2 coils should have been. And also the Filter capacitor isn’t there either.
So what I did was remove the 2 wires and replace them by following Common Mode Choke Filter Inductor. The bigger the coil, the bigger the current through your Power Adapter can be. But a bigger one that your original pcb doesn’t let you insert is simply not possible and no need for either.
And next thing I did was insert the special X2(!!) 275 VAC Safety Capacitor that also was missing in the primary of the Power Adapter circuit. (It is most likely directly connected onto the AC Power Input lines Phase and Neutral to short circuit any Interference generating Signals from injecting back into the Power Net).
Next picture shows you how such an as filter capacitor used safety Capacitor looks like.
(There are also even more special and probably more expensive safer Capacitors that also contain a Fuse breaker circuit inside, but I guess we normally do not need these here).
After I fixed the replacement Sony AC-L10A,B,C Switching Power Adapter (my Brother lost his original Sony Adapter because someone presumably took his original one) the Videos were free of any artifact finally !
My brother previously only could copy his 8mm homevideos to his pc by using just the Battery on his Camera. His AC-L10 Adapter was therefore previously only useable to charge his Camera Battery with it. Unlike the original Sony Power Adapter that probably is well filtered AND also has a short circuit protection. But it is however still uncertain if the not original Adapter doesn’t.
The secondary side of the Replacement Adapter had one Filter Coil so it had some Filtering. But I also added a small 0.1uF capacitor over the output just to be sure any generated HF switching component would stay out of the Camera DC input voltage. Of course the Adapter case afterwards was glued together, so it was safe and I use Super glue Gel for this as I have mentioned in one of my previous articles before. That glue just doesn’t drip and also glues very fast too!
Please click on the schematic to enlarge it
But surely after this great fix the Replacement Power Adapter for the Sony CCD-TRV69E Camera worked like a charm, and my brother finally could use his Camera even if the original Camera Battery was empty.
Albert van Bemmelen, Weert, The Netherlands.
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P.P.S- Note: You can also read his previous repair article below:
https://www.jestineyong.com/400-watt-pc-power-supply-repaired/
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Robert Calk
January 8, 2016 at 6:14 pm
Thanks, Albert. Rip-offs are everywhere now-a-days.
Albert van Bemmelen
January 10, 2016 at 1:00 am
You are very right Robert. And mostly also made in China just like the original electronic devices.
To name a few : Dreambox Satellite recievers for a price you only could buy halve of the original devices. Or Arduino Boards almost completely identical to the original ones and perfectly working (only different USB to RS232 chip that people say it is not working, but I had no problem with those whatsoever)!
And China parts only get a bad name if they leave important parts out of a pcb board like they did with the not original Sony AC-L10 in the above article. Because after the Fix/repair they probably work completely identical to an original Sony Camera Power Adapter.
But for that matter it really makes no difference if something is made in China because every big Firm like for instance Philips in The Netherlands, or more recently VolksWagen (VW) from Germany, did things to save a dollar a million times that in the end only did hurt their good name. And I have some very bad examples at home of Cassette taperecorders made by Sony of Japan that shouldn't be sold at all, So Bad !! (Even already in the Sony manual there was warned not to use Pause and Play that caused the FlyWheel to Stop and you had to open the Cassette Deck to get it running again! Which was just idiotic). Once the Sony Slogan used to be: we are small thus we have to be good! And they had too late seen that CRT tv tubes were already out !
beh
January 10, 2016 at 12:55 pm
Albert
i have to tell you that Samsung recently reduced the life span of the panels of LCD TVs from 50000 hours to 20000 hours this is just for more sale and more benefits for few dollars more policy
Albert van Bemmelen
January 10, 2016 at 4:56 pm
Hi Beh, another reason why I probably never buy a Samsung tv again!
I've seen my sisters Panasonic 3D tv which is much clearer and sharper.
Of course all 3D tv's are sharper and have a higher refreshing rate and have a better picture if watched standard 2D. My tv is a 39 inch Samsung that was just too expensive for what it can do. One thing that my Samsung completely fails in doing is thrustworthy connecting through another HDMi source when you use the HDMi input selector with your Remote. It just doesn't want to do this quick and easy why most of the time you switch "HDMi channels" you only get a Black Screen. And I have to repeat the HDMi source selection until the signal appears. Which is just the biggest reason never to buy another Samsung LCD TV again!
beh
January 11, 2016 at 1:14 am
Hi Albert
yes about the Panasonic TV s completely i agree with you specially
most of the parts easily is obtainable in the market and not much customized parts are used in this TVs .
Mason Sarles
January 25, 2016 at 9:55 pm
Great article on interference from dirty power supplies. I have noticed that the young people that I work with are always buying cheap replacements to save a few dollars. They simply don't understand the difference in electronic building techniques and counterfeit components.
Thank you,
Mason
RJ
January 8, 2016 at 7:27 pm
Thanks! I'd imagine this applies to laptop adapters, also, however I've never taken a cheap one apart. I try to avoid, but many of my customers opt for a $7 one over a $30+ one & they appear to usually work ok.
Albert van Bemmelen
January 8, 2016 at 8:15 pm
I guess that only if you open the Adapter or check with an AM
radio like on the Youtube link is explained you can be sure
if there is any RF interference and that the circuit is safely
Filtered Primary (AC in) AND secundary (DC out). Most cheap laptop adapters cause problems on the mouse pointer that doesn't work
with the adapter connected. And when you check this by removing
the DC adapter input you probably see that the mouse is only
working fine after.
Henrique J. G. Ulbrich
January 8, 2016 at 7:40 pm
Thanks, Albert. A very usefull report. Just a comment: as the switching is performed in high frequency (that's a caracteristic of SMPSs), it's normal (or advisable) that a small capacitor be connected in parallel to the elcap 1000 uF/16 V on the secondary side. That's because not all elcaps perform suitably in filtering high frequencies. This combination allows a more efficient filtering and more stability as a whole.
Albert van Bemmelen
January 8, 2016 at 8:07 pm
Thanks Henrique, I did add a 0.1uF to the secondary myself
lateron too. But it is not drawn into the circuit because the shown
schematic is that exactly like the original device was. Only the
Common Mode Inductor Filter coil was already added to the
original schematic that as said had none.
Suranga Electronics
January 8, 2016 at 7:46 pm
Thanks for Repair and Adapter Diagram.
Albert van Bemmelen
January 8, 2016 at 8:56 pm
PS: resistor R7A in the circuit is probably only 300 ohm instead
of the previous given 3k value in the schematic. I did change this
a day later when I rechecked the colour code on my photos made of
the device. All other values are correct. The Filter capacitor I
added to the primary side of 0.1 uF X2 275V worked okay, but maybe
a 22nF X2 275V capacitor Filters just as well but I haven't tested
this. I don't know the original value used in an original Sony
Adapter but noticed that 0.1uF often was used in the Primary of
PC ATX Power Supplies also. The 7.2 mA AC current in the 31.8KOhm Capacitance [Xc = 1/ (2 x pi x f x C)] equals a not Real Power
dissipation (current and voltage are out of phase so no dissipation)
of about 1.66 Watt in the capacitor (Voltage^2/Xc). But the taken
current in one half of the Sinusoide is probably therefore given
back the other half of the Sinusoide. And dissipates therefore
no heat or Power. Reactive Dissipation is Blind Power (sometimes
also refured as Q) which is U x I x Sin Phi. Real Ohmic Power
dissipation (U and I in Phase !) is U x I x Cos Phi.
Parasuraman S
January 8, 2016 at 8:33 pm
Excellent! The noise mix up in a video product is really a menace! You have done a thorough re-design job! Thanks for sharing! All the best!
Humberto
January 8, 2016 at 10:52 pm
Thanks Albert, an useful tutorial. In my country we have a slogan: lo barato sale caro. Thanks and keep up.
Henrique J. G. Ulbrich
January 9, 2016 at 10:07 pm
Humberto, here in Brazil is the same: o barato sai caro. No more suffering quality products, please.
Albert Hoekman, Holland
January 9, 2016 at 12:00 am
Hoi Albert, mooi stukje noeste arbeid!
Hello Albert, nice job you did!
Albert van Bemmelen
January 9, 2016 at 6:03 pm
Thanks Albert. I owe it to my brother that I came upon this problem and the solution. And he now could dupe al his family video tapes very fast and easily to his pc. Because he didn't need to first charge his Camera Battery over and over again. The videoquality finally was perfect while just using the 'noise' Filter Fixed Adapter!
Gerald
January 9, 2016 at 9:52 am
Hi Albert,
Nice work, thanks for sharing. I have a number of "noisy" adapters in my workshop that I have to disconnect because they interfere with a short wave radio that I am building. Some are emitting a quite strong signal... I never tried to open them though. Your article inspired me to do so.
Cheers, Gerald
Albert van Bemmelen
January 9, 2016 at 5:51 pm
Hi Gerald, of course there is a way to tell if the 'noisy' adapters in your home will benefit from adding the Common Mode Filter Inductor and Filter Capacitor without even having to open them forehand! And it is an easy way too! Just put both parts in the AC input wires of your adapter and test if it helps. If it does your adapter probably is inadequately Filtered indeed!
Gerald
January 10, 2016 at 11:43 am
Hi Albert,
Good tip thanks. Actually my short wave receiver is powered by battery because of this type of problem. However it is possible that the 'noisy' adapters send interference through the 240V line that is acting as an antenna. In such case adding the filter close to the adapter would help. I will do some testings.
Cheers, GM
Albert van Bemmelen
January 10, 2016 at 4:35 pm
Hi Gerald. Indeed that is why the Filter circuit always is connected as closest to the controller in the Switch Mode Power Adapters. Those ic's generate the huge Interferences. How to connect the Common Mode Filter inductor circuit as closest on the external outside galvanic to the adapter won't be easy. And I think the best internally Shielded adapters are also completely incapsulated into metal housings. But most Power Adapters - like the filter fixed AC-L10 in the article - only are placed in completely unshielded cheap plastic cases. But that is mostly the way it is. And the strange thing about those fine metal cased Adapters is that they often are only connected by a simple 2 wire powercord. Instead of using the 3 wire connection including Earth wiring which is Safety Rule when it is metal cases concerned!
beh
January 9, 2016 at 12:40 pm
Hi ALBERT
thanks for article .you mean that you add to pcb three components
that were not installed ? one chock filter and 2 caps?...
Albert van Bemmelen
January 9, 2016 at 5:24 pm
Yes indeed Beh. The Common Mode Inductor Filter plus A safety special X2 Filter Capacitor 275V !(both on the primary). This is Mandatory. Plus extra on the Secondary a 100nF = 0.1uF capacitor over the DC output lines. Last one is not Critical I guess. Just to be extra safe no disturbances get into the DC output.
beh
January 10, 2016 at 12:44 pm
WOw! Albert in my next article i will show you how chines recharge a 4 volt battery with 302 volt dc!! this one is more amazing.
Albert van Bemmelen
January 11, 2016 at 4:10 am
I'm not sure Beh but I think I've seen that already in an article about unsafe led chargers in flashlight/light torches from China.
beh
January 11, 2016 at 9:48 am
Albert
this is not my article. may be some one reached to this point before and issued in u tube .or some where, my article still is under process and needs to add some data and fact and is not cooked yet hope to come soon
Albert van Bemmelen
January 11, 2016 at 4:24 pm
Okay Beh. I also am curious what next item you will bring.
Gerald
January 11, 2016 at 8:49 am
Hi Beh,
Looking forward to your next article. This will be wonderful.
I like to read about the "Made in China" shortcuts 🙂
Cheers,
GM
vpvalentine
January 10, 2016 at 2:53 am
g ateway laptop mx 3414 had a gateway power adapter that appears the dc mm plug is a little short.NOW when I was looking on e bay sure the v, w,a, are marked BUT not plug mm size. I had to order in an attempt to get the right size mm. NOW what brands of adapters have all the correct insides please advise and thanks
Albert van Bemmelen
January 11, 2016 at 3:56 am
Good question vpvalentine, but I am not sure if I can help you since I do not know how a Gateway Laptop mx3414 Adapter or its plug looks like. And I wonder why you ask this if your original Gateway should already be the right adapter for your Gateway Laptop. I take it that you mean with v,w,a Volts,Wattage,Amps and maybe it is a good idea to look for an universal Power Supply with enough Amps and Watts. Those Laptop Power Supplies can be bought also including a 12 Volt Input (so you can even use your laptop in your Car) and have a 5V USB output plus selectable Laptop Voltage from 12V upto 24 Volt!
And the best part is that those Adapters are included with about 9 or more different plugs. So great chance you find the right plug for your Laptop there. If you asked this because the plug in your laptop had moved internally and becam an internal problem, you need to fix this first ! I have several 120 Watt universal Power Supplies and they all have metal cases/housing.
Andrea Del Corso
January 11, 2016 at 9:27 pm
Hi Albert
thanks for all your notes and articles !
Albert van Bemmelen
January 12, 2016 at 11:09 pm
Glad you liked it Andrea Del Corso! I appreciate it.
Ulises Aguilar Pazzani
February 13, 2017 at 2:37 am
Mr van Bemmelen another engineering fix, great job
Albert van Bemmelen
April 14, 2017 at 4:54 am
Thank you Mr Aguilar Pazzani.