- No Power In LED TV SolvedPosted 3 days ago
- How To Repair Toshiba LED TV With No Power SymptomPosted 1 month ago
- Samsung LED TV Auto Change Channel RepairPosted 2 months ago
- How To Repair LED TV Backlight Problem – No PicturePosted 3 months ago
- How To Repair LED TV No Picture- Singer BrandPosted 9 months ago
- LED TV Repair- Cheap Replacement PartsPosted 9 months ago
- Not Common To See Dual Super Barrier Rectifier Breakdown When Under LoadPosted 10 months ago
- How To Solve No Power Problem In Haier LCD LED TV RepairPosted 1 year ago
- Singer 32″ Skyworth LED TV With Dim Display RepairPosted 1 year ago
- 42″ LG LED TV RepairedPosted 1 year ago
Exhaust Gas Recirculation EGR System Hack on 1.6TDI engines
Today I will discuss about a very common problem on now day’s modern car’s so called Exhaust Gas Recirculation system or in short EGR. I got a Skoda Octavia II 1.6TDI-CR engine code CAYC which was suffering on power leak, service mode or LIMP mod however, “Check engine” was on etc.
Mechanics told to the customer the EGR system should be changed, but that is a very expensive story for the customer. Then they told does some “hacker” should the EGR system disarmed ( so called EGR OFF method ) from the system so that system would no more be in an active working condition, but the error code would never be logged by the ECU etc. In my meaning that technicians only part changers and not pros.
I decide to check what is going on and why should somebody turn off a system in a car if some manufacturers are made that for some reason.
So, here is the repair stuff by me:
The EGR system on this type of engine is not as complex as it looks like. Here is a picture and a *design view of the unit.
On this engine a P0408 DTC was set, which means on a simple language the EGR valve is too much closed, or in technical meaning the signal to the ECU is very low actually it is out of range.
What this mean, on this unit the common DTC’s are:
P0408 – signal too low, out of range
P0403 – signal too high, out of range
P046C – which means the EGR valve is not in a position in which it should be.
Please note that I declared these errors on a very low level so people who are not pros or technicians can also understand what this DTC’s means.
In profession technical doc’s these DTC’s are more specific and precise declared.
Here are the pin outs of the EGR connector:
Pin 2 and pin 6 are the PWM wire who powers the DC motor, where pin 2 is GND, pin 6 +12V.
Pin 1, pin 3 and pin 5 are the signal pins.
Pin 1 is the reference voltage from the ECU and the value must be 5V.
Pin 3 is the signal ground
Pin 5 is the EGR valve position value which must be between 0.71V and 4.01V.
0.71V means a closed EGR valve.
4.01V means an open EGR valve.
Everything between 0.71 and 4.01 is the position of the EGR valve which is returning to the ECU.
Checking the EGR for electronic failure:
- Let the EGR unit on the car as is.
- Check the pin 2 and pin 6 with oscilloscope for 12V PWM signal until the car key is turned to ignite position but don’t crank the engine.
- Check with voltmeter the pin 3 and pin 1 for 5V until the car key is turned to ignite position but don’t crank the engine.
- Check with voltmeter between pin 3 and pin 5 for 0.71V – 0.9V until the key is tuned to ignite position but don’t crank the car.
- Unbolt the EGR motor and check if the valve is moving freely by turning the half gear by hand.
In my case in the ECU was stored the P0408 error code.
Until I checked the signals as I wrote I realized does the signal between pin 3 and pin 5 are low which was around 0.59V. This triggered the DTC error P0408. There were also no trapped mechanical parts or even no clogged parts.
Why have I a low voltage in a zero position of the EGR valve?
I assume because the age and millage of the car. The mechanical parts got some space after years of friction and this would explain a small deviation in the voltage. I have to get back a 0.71V to the ECU when the EGR valve is in zero position.
What I did was actually make a small voltage divider with two resistors and sum that voltage with the output voltage which tells the ECU the position of the EGR valve. In my case, I measured a voltage of 0.59V but I need 0.71V. So I must add something around 120mV.
I have a reference voltage of 5V on pin 1. Adding two resistors in series so does it gives me in the midpoint a voltage of around 120mV. Then I cut the trace on the PCB where the output pin was. Now one end of the resistors was soldered to the pin +5 and the other end of the resistors was connected to the pin5 on the IC. The midpoint of the resistors was connected to the ECU or to the pin 5, so I got a new value to the ECU which was around 0.72V.
Here is a picture about my hack.
Actually I summed the two voltages and so I got a desired voltage around 0.7V.
What you have to worry about this hack is that, does the value of resistors what I used is not specified to all situation on all EGR problems.
To specify the value of the resistors you should first check the difference in the voltage between the measured voltages on the EGR connector pin 3 and pin 5 and there must be a voltage which is 0.71V.
I also tested this on two other cars with the same symptoms and all of them had a lover voltage but not the same low voltage. One of them had around 300mV the other had around 630mV etc. and in relation of the differential you have to calculate value of the voltage divider with two resistors.
Before I made this hack, I simulated this also on my computer in my favorite circuit simulator. NI Multisim, of course there are other nice simulators too. Here is my simple’s circuit from my simulator:
Here is the formula for calculating the voltage divider resistor values:
Vout = should be the searched voltage which is 0.71V
This tutorial will save money for the customer and lot of repairing time for the technicians who repairs the car, but you should know does, this type of repairing is not usable and without success if the EGR system is full filled with dirt and if they are some failed mechanic parts and the EGR valve mechanism can’t move freely. In that case you have to change the mechanic mart too.
* The design view picture was taken from the SSP 442 training document made by VW AG.
I hope you enjoy this tutorial and will save lot of repair time.
This article was prepared for you by Christian Robert Adzic from Novi Knezevac-Serbia.
Please give a support by clicking on the social buttons below. Your feedback on the post is welcome. Please leave it in the comments.
P.S- If you enjoyed reading this, click here to subscribe to my blog (free subscription). That way, you’ll never miss a post. You can also forward this website link to your friends and colleagues-thanks!
Note: You can check his previous post in the below link: